Volcano Nevado de Toluca is located near the city of Toluca in Mexico and is considered the symbol of the capital of the state of Mexico City. More one name of the mountain — Xicnautecatl, which translates to «Nine Peaks» with Nahuatl languages. Nevado de Toluca is the fourth highest peak in Mexico and one of the twenty highest in North America. This is a giant volcano with a vast crater containing two small lakes of glacial origin. The lakes are among the 35 most elevated lakes in the world, located at an altitude of over 4200 m above sea level. The lakes are separated from each other by a cone called Ombligo («Navel»). Even though nowadays there are no ice masses on the mountain, snow often covers its ridges for some time, creating a spectacle of extraordinary beauty. And this happens at any time of the year.
Nevado de Toluca has been considered a sacred place and an object of worship for thousands of years, as evidenced by numerous archaeological finds. Climbing the mountain for ritual purposes dates back to the pre-Hispanic era. This is evidenced by the remains of pottery from the Postclassic period (900 – 1525 AD), found just a few meters from the peak of Pico de Fraile (Monk's Peak).
Climbing Nevado de Toluca during periods when the mountain is covered with a fairly thick layer of snow requires special equipment - an ice ax, climbing clothing and glasses that protect from UV radiation. The use of climbing crampons and ropes depends on weather conditions when there is significant snowfall or ice formation after heavy snowfall. In the case of climbing routes of increased difficulty or on mixed soils (rock and ice or snow), specific equipment may be needed.
Volcanic activity in this region began 2.6 million years ago. During this period, the predecessor of the modern volcano arose, which is called Paleonevado, which consisted of lava deposits of dacite and andesite types. The period of volcanic activity was followed by a period of intense erosion (1.2 - 0.1 million years ago). Subsequently, about 100 thousand years ago, the modern volcano Nevado de Toluca began its formation. During this period, volcanic domes were constantly formed and then destroyed, and in addition to this, a series of explosions occurred inside the volcano. Several strong eruptions occurred, some of which caused the collapse of the volcanic structure. The youngest of these eruptions occurred 28 thousand years ago and left the Nevado crater covered on the eastern side. These eruptions, which had enormous destructive power, affected the height and shape of the volcanic structure.
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The last significant eruption occurred 3,300 years ago in the area of modern Moon Lake. In addition, there is evidence that a very large eruption occurred 10,500 years ago. It was characterized by large emissions of tuff, ash and gases, which rose to a height of about 25 km. Mineral deposits the size of grains of gravel, released into the air by the volcano, showered the territory of modern Toluca and its surroundings, forming a layer 1.5 meters thick. They even reached the territory of modern Mexico City (80 km from the volcano), where volcanic emissions covered the ground with a 50-centimeter layer of volcanic ash.
As for glaciers, in other words, moraine deposits and ice cover on the northern, northwestern and southeastern slopes of the volcano. Traces of glaciations have been found that occurred in periods more than 32,500 years ago, about 11,500 years ago and more recently, during the Little Glaciation (3,500 - 2,000 years ago), and in addition, evidence that there were layers of permanent ice during the Little Ice Age (from the 15th to the 19th centuries). It is known that the mountain was covered with real glaciers about 8000 thousand years ago, which gradually melted at an altitude of less than 4100 — 4200 m, i.e. just below the edges of the volcano crater. The crater lakes are a product of the melting ice sheet that formed in the crater after the formation of the volcanic dome. During the tfrom period, the thickness of the ice cover should have exceeded 150 m.
The volcano has a wide variety of ecosystems due to the significant difference in altitude. Among them, the most significant are pine forests, oak forests, spruce forests and deciduous forests. It is possible to say that about 100 years ago in these forests there was a Mexican wolf (Canis lupus baileyi), which today is considered extinct. And in the lowest part on the southern side of the volcano, almost at the foot, a low-growing deciduous selva (tropical forest) or dry selva grows. Closer to the top there are ecosystems with herbaceous vegetation of high-mountain meadows (above 3900 m).
Two large rivers in the region originate from the horns of the volcano — Lerma and Balsas.
Despite the fact that Xicnautecatl is considered the fourth peak in Mexico, there are still no complete lists of the fauna and flora of the volcano itself and its surroundings, since very little research has been carried out. About 24 species of birds have been confirmed to live here. Among the birds living in high-mountain subalpine meadows (above 3900 m), the presence of the western meadow trumpet (Strunella magna) and the wandering thrush (Turdus migratorius) are noted. Purple Tanager Warbler (Ergaticus ruber) — one of the endemic birds of Mexico — lives in the pine forests of Nevado de Toluca. Among other birds — Banded Oriturus supersiliciosus, which is found exclusively in the highlands of Mexico, Sparrow Kestrel (Falco sperverius), Yellow-eyed Junco (Junco phaenotus), Eastern Siala sialis, Steller's Jay (Cyanocitta stelleri), Hummingbird (Selasphorus spp) and Carrion Crows (Corvus corax).
Amphibians and reptiles are represented by the genus Ambystoma spp, lizards of the genera Abronia spp, spiny iguanas Sceloporus spp, and in addition, typical inhabitants of the mountains of the Trans-Mexican volcanic belt, lizards of the species Barisia imbricata.
Among the mammals, there are lynx (Lynx rufus), koifrom (Canis latrans), and white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus), although the latter species is very rare. Rodents, bats and shrews live here, and among them are some endemic species such as the volcano mouse (Neotomodon alstoni) and the mouse Peromyscus megalops. As for the sakatuche, or volcano rabbit (Romerolagus diazi), it was believed that this species had completely disappeared from the territory of the National Park, however, in recent years, witnesses have begun to appear who have seen the sakatuche. However, the rabbit may have been reintroduced to Nevado's natural requirements in the 1970s, but locals confuse the true sakatuche with another species, Silvilagus cunicularis, which is called teporingo.
Since July 26, 2008, the State Commission for Environmental Protection Areas and Fauna (Cepanaf) has closed vehicle access to the crater of the volcano, and by car it is only possible to reach the ridge called Paso Quetzales at an altitude of 4150 m above sea level.
The northern and western slopes are the most used by hikers. The route, which is particularly easy, is along the ridge on the north side to a place called Paso Quetzales, from there to the very top, along the Campanarios Peaks, passing along the bottom of the crater. The western ridge, called Oso or Cerro Prieto (4320 m), is less popular because it is much longer and requires better preparation. On the other hand, the route, which follows a semi-circle that partially outlines the summit and eventually climbs to a series of peaks located between Pico de Aguila (4640) and Pico del Fraile (4690), makes for a very interesting climb. Like the previous one, along the western ridge, this route requires more experience. All three of these routes give the most complete impression of the features of climbing the volcano.
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Route 1. From the Paso Quetzales ridge (4150 m) to Pic del Fraile (4690 m). Difficulty level: easy.
It starts at an altitude of 4150 m, leads along the ridge, descending to the top, along the road leading to the lakes. A wide road approximately 1 km long to the lower rim of the crater (4300 m). From there the descent continues inward, the path lies sideways from the Hombligo lava cone, and then along the Campanarios Peaks to the top. The last meters are a climb along the steep south-eastern wall of the peak, which leads to the very top.
Length: 8 km (round trip). Elevation difference from: 540 m. Travel time: from 4 to 6 hours (round trip).
This route is one of the easiest to reach the summit and provides views of the interior of the crater and lake. The path is quite clearly visible up to the Campanarios Peaks, but then, to the very top - Pico del Fraile - you will have to walk carefully. To get to the very top, in some areas you need to climb rocks, however, without any special technical difficulties. In cases where there is snow cover or ice, from time to time the use of an ice ax will be necessary, or if the snow and ice are abundant, crampons and a cable are needed.
Route 2. Western slope along the Cerro Prieto ridge. Difficulty level: medium.
The climb can be started in three different places. The first option is from the village of Las Raises, the second - from the SAHOP parking lot and the third - from the Los Venados parking lot. The SAHOP site (3780 m) is located on the same road leading to the top of the volcano as the Los Venados site (3680 m), only the first is located higher in the mountains, two kilometers after the second. From these sites, paths rise upward leading to the height where the vegetation ends (4030 m). From here begins the ascent to Cerro Prieto mountain. To get to it, you must cross the depression in the path. It is not necessary to climb to the very top of Cerro Prieto (4320 m) - following the ridge, you need to reach the edge of the crater. In some cases you will have to go around rocky cliffs. The uppermost slope has a slope of 35 - 40°. Having risen to the crater, the path continues to the top of the volcano, along the ground covered with pieces of rocks that have split into flat tiles.
Length of the route: from the village of Raises – 9 km, from the Los Venados parking lot – 6 km. If in the opposite direction this is chosen from the last route, equal to 12 km. Elevation differencefrom: from Las Raises 1180 m, from Los Venados 900 m. Travel time: from 7 to 9 hours (round trip). Provided there is snow cover, it is worth calculating 10 — 11 o'clock.
This is one of the most spectacular routes. On the one hand, at the beginning of the path, the two highest peaks of the volcano and the ridge connecting them are revealed to the eye. The ridge, although it seems very long, is actually not that long — its maximum length is 1.5 km — and offers you to admire the most interesting landscapes. At the end of the path you will have a magnificent view of the crater and the lakes in it. Crows (Corvus corax) are quite common to be seen in this part of the volcano, as the crevices in the rocks provide practical nesting sites for them. The last few meters of the ascent should be careful with stone slides, or if there is snow or ice, and also do not get too close to the spring wall on the right side, from the cliff 50 m high. It is allowed to shorten the route, starting it from the road leading to the top (4020 m), in the place where the towers with TV antennas are located.
Route 3. Hike along the ridge (partially skirting the crater). Level of difficulty: medium
The easiest way is to start from Paso Quetzales, this is the final point that can be reached by road transport. Once you reach Paso Quetzales, you begin to climb along the rim of the crater. The path passes through the Mirador peak and leads to Pico del Aguila, from which the ascent is made from the north side, because... this is the simplest option. The path then continues close to the rim of the crater, resulting in alternating views of both the outer and inner sides, among the peaks of Piecjel, Ezequiel Ordoñez and Burkhart. The first one is extremely steep, so you should stick to its outer edge. Ordoñez does not present any great difficulties, but Burkhart must be climbed along a steep north-eastern slope, following the inner side of the volcano's crater, in other words, the part that faces the Lake of the Sun (Laguna del Sol). After this, this route connects with route no. 2 and, to sum it up, leads to Pico del Fraile (4690 m). The path then follows to the peaks of Campanarios (Big and Small, 4450 and 4380 m respectively) and descends to the Lake of the Moon (Laguna de la Luna), rises to the top of the Paso Quetzales ridge (4300 m and eventually descends to the parking lot, to its beginning (4150 m).
Length of route: 8 km (full route including Paso Quetzales, Pico del Aguila, Pic del Fraile and Campanarios). Elevation difference from: 800 m. Travel time: from 7 to 9 hours.
The route does not present any particular technical difficulties, but is quite long. Descents and ascents are carried out at an altitude of more than 4300 m. The most rugged part of the route is the ridge, the distance between the two highest peaks (Aguila and Fraile). The length of this section is no more than one and a half kilometers, but its passage is extremely slow, since it occurs at an altitude of more than 4600 above sea level. This makes the climb even more impressive in the presence of snow or ice, but also requires more climbing experience on easier routes. The advantage is the panoramas - you can see the lakes from almost all possible angles; in addition, this route makes it possible to climb the two highest peaks of the volcano during the day in one day.
Route 4: from Paso Quetzales to Pico del Aguila.
From the Paso Quetzales parking lot (4150 m) there is an ascent to the crater and along its edge continues to the rocky part of the volcanic dome of Pico del Aguila. Here the difficulty of the climb increases, since in some places you have to climb. Due to the fact that most of the path passes along the northern slope, you need to be constantly on alert, since in case of heavy ice or snow cover the risk of falling increases. The use of an ice ax is recommended. The descent down into the crater, to the sandy shores of Lake Sol (Lago del Sol), should be made along a depression - a channel on the north-eastern slope of the dome.
Route 5: to Pico del Aguila, along the western slope, from the parking areas.
In this case, you can start either from the Los Venados or SAHOP parking lot, mentioned in the description of route 2, to get to the western slope. If you want to shorten the route, you are allowed to drive by car along the road to the level where the wooded vegetation ends (4020 m). The ascent is carried out directly along the western slope of the peak. The path gets lost at about 4300 m, since here you have to walk on crumbling soils — rocky glacier beds or moraines to reach the crater rim. Having reached the crater, there remains the last sharp path, no more than 40 m, to climb to the top of the peak. If there is snow, the risk of getting stuck in a crevice or falling through increases (especially during descent). It is recommended to use an ice ax.
Alpine skiing is permitted when the mountain has sufficient snow cover. There are the following options that can be implemented on less steep slopes with good orientation: 1 - on the inner slopes of the crater (between Campanario Menor Peak and the Hombligo volcanic dome, 2 - on the northern slope near Mirador Peak, 3 - near the microwave transmission towers (4020 m).
A very popular activity is climbing the volcano and descending it by bicycle. Typically, cyclists climb along an unpaved road that leads inside the crater to the lakes. Downhill is practiced even in the inner part of the crater, along depressions, channels, despite the slope, scree and volcanic gravel. Recently, bicycle descent or ATV descent has been practiced from the crater into the Valle de Bravo (to the west of the volcano), which makes it possible to admire the beauty of the landscapes of this grandiose volcano.
On the peaks of del Aguila (on the thin, southern slope) and Fraile (southwestern) it is allowed to climb from the spring walls several tens of meters high. It is especially impressive to do this in winter, after a recent snowfall, with the appropriate equipment and technology.
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