Iztaccihuatl — the third highest peak in Mexico. Located on the border of the states of Puebla and Mexico City, at a distance of 65 km from Mexico City. The name of the volcano is translated from Nahuatl as “white woman.” Like many other mountains in Mexico, Iztaccihuatl served as an object of worship in ancient times. The outline of the volcano resembles the silhouette of a woman lying on her back.
Ice fields and snow have always attracted the attention of climbers with their spectacular nature. Due to the fact that access to Popocatepetl is closed due to its activity, Iztaccihuatl is very visited by climbers from Mexico and other countries. By its nature, Iztaccihuatl is considered a complex of volcanoes that are in a state of apparent dormancy. In some places you can see signs of weak activity — smoking or streams and rocks altered by volcanic gases.
The first ascent of Iztaccihuatl was made in the pre-Hispanic era. Fragments of pottery, agave needles and other artifacts discovered in the Pecho Crater («Chest») are evidence that people reached the summit in ancient times. The mountain is still the subject of ritual ascents today; there are shrines on it that were built in ancient times.
Since there are many options for access to the mountain and the peak, for an expedition planning to climb this 5,000-meter peak, neither the arrival to the national park nor the ascent itself will present any difficulties. The climb to the top along the usual route is easy from a technical point of view. However, you need to have climbing equipment, warm clothes, an ice ax and safety glasses with you. In addition, it is recommended to hire a guide. The greatest difficulty that can arise — This is the effect of high altitude on the body.
The oldest rocks of this volcanic complex were formed 1.7 million years ago. The formation of the cones and main rock masses of the upper part of Iztaccihuatl (Head, Chest and Feet peaks) began about 900 thousand years ago. It happened in two stages. The more ancient period of volcanic activity is more than 600 thousand years old, and the youngest is counted from this era. The crater of the peak of El Pecho («Chest») and the Teyfroml volcano, located in the north of the peak of La Cabeza («Head»), are the youngest and have an age ranging from 20 to 80 thousand years, respectively. They consist of basalts, andesites and dacites. Iztaccihuatl has survived a number of stages of volcanic activity and glaciations and is considered one of the most interesting mountains in Mexico, since its glacial characteristics are very well preserved. Less than 10 thousand years ago, an eruption occurred through a fault on the southeastern slope of the mountain, from the side of modern Puebla. For this reason, Iztaccihuatl is classified as an active dormant volcano.
On Iztaccihuatl, light gas emissions are recorded on the same southeastern side (at an altitude of about 4100 m) and in an area called Barriga («Alive from»), at an altitude of 5080 m, which are located under the supervision of specialists to monitor the condition of the volcano as a whole. There are still several ice fields preserved on the volcano, and in contrast to other snow-capped volcanic giants, on Iztaccihuatl they are located in the areas of craters and peaks, there are 4 of them in total, and they are all located on a surface not exceeding 0.2 square meters. km.
It is possible to provide evidence of the activity of Iztaccihuatl, recorded on July 20, 1868, when a small eruption occurred on the right side of the cliff called Torre San Agustin. As it is recorded in the official document, "many rocks fell and the aqueduct was destroyed, and a lot of water splashed out with the smell of sulfur." This could have happened due to anomalous changes in the state of the volcano’s hydrothermal system, which “heated up” the volcano. glacier located in the Right Knee crater.
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The ecosystems of the mountain are very diverse. There are mainly coniferous forests (pines, spruces), oak forests, cloud forests and alpine meadows. In addition, there is a secondary flora introduced by human activity. An essential ecosystem is the cloudy mountain forest. They are found in some gorges and on the slopes of the western part of the volcano (at an altitude not exceeding 3200 m). The most common tree species in them are capulin, wild cherry (Prunus prionophylla), mamohuaxtle (Clethra mexicana), xochilcorona (Cornus disciflora), habonsiyo (Meliosma dentata), tepesapfrome (Ilex tolucana), laurel oak (Quercus laurina) and other species depending on the area. A characteristic feature of cloud forests is the abundance of climbing plants and epiphytes.
Another common ecosystem is oak forests, where the main species are white oak (Quercus rugosa), laurel oak (Quercus laurina) and Quercus crassipes spp. In the pine forests there are: Montezuma pine (Pinus montezumae), Pinus presudostrobus, ayacahuite (Pinus ayacahuite) and Hartweg or alpine pine (Pinus hatrwegii).
The spruce forests are dominated by oyamel (Abies religiosa), accompanied by other species: aile (Alnus jorillensis), belonging to the Birch family, laurel oak (Quercus laurina) and willow (Salix paradoxa), quachichik (Guarria laurifolia), capulin (Prunus serotina) and Mexican cypress (Cupressus). lusitanica). Shrub plants are represented mainly by mountain juniper (Juniperus monticola) and its accompanying species.
52 species of mammals have been recorded on the volcano, 10 of which are endemic to Mexico. Rodents (squirrels, gophers, rats, mice), carnivores, bats, insectivores (shrews), lagomorphs (hares and rabbits), marsupials (opossum), armadillo and white-tailed deer are found.
There are 5 endangered mammal species: rabbit (Romerolagus diazi), puma (Felis concolor azteca), lynx (Lynx rufus escuinapae), moose (Nasua nasua), white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus). As for birds, there are about 200 species, belonging to 32 families, of which buntings are considered the most numerous. There are four species that are in varying degrees of need for protection: the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) is endangered, the harlequin partridge (Cyrtonix montezumae) is a vulnerable species, the water thrush (Cinclus mexicanus) is a species that should be monitored, the mountain sparrow (Xenospiza baileyi) — endangered. Of the total number of bird species, only 18 are Mexican endemics.
As for amphibians and reptiles, there are such as the horned lizard (Phrynosoma spp), and lizards of other genera Sceloporus, Eumeces, Abronia. Noteworthy is the presence of the folded frog (Para plicata), which reaches significant heights from (3800 m); Moreover, its typical habitat is areas with bodies of water.
In total, 273 species of vertebrates live on the territory of the national park, at altitudes from 2500 to 5500 m above sea level.
Iztaccihuatl offers many climbing and trekking options, making this mountain extremely attractive.
Route 1. Alpine shelter path. Difficulty level: easy.
Description: the path begins in the town of Khoyita, 3970 m. The first 400 m of the climb goes to Khoya (3990 m), from where the climbing path begins along the southern slope, along one of the ridges. The path passes through a series of hollows: Mirador Acalican (4250 m), Guglia (4400 m) and Tobilos (Ankles, 4540 m). On this cut, the path runs near the peak of Amacuilecatl or Pies Iztacciguatl (los Pies, 4710 m), then along the Amacuilecatl crater, known as Mirapuebla, «See Puebla», and then through the Ojo de Buey valley de Buey, «Bull's Eye») and the ascent continues until the area begins, in which several shelters were previously located. At the moment there is only one left, with a capacity of 20 — 30 people, called Shelter 19, (Refugio 19), located at an altitude of 4720 m.
From here onwards the trail climbs sandy and rocky slopes along the Espinillas ridge. On some of the cuts, starting from 4900 m (Cross of Guadalajara, Cruz de Guadalajara), you have to climb rocks (III degree of difficulty) until you get to Rodilla Izquerda, “Left Knee”, 5050 m. Next, the ascent continues along the inner edge of the ancient crater, in which there was once a glacier (San Agustín), and after it to the top of Cadera (Cadera, «Hip»), 5100 m. From here the path goes along the southeastern glacier, located on Barriga (Barriga, «Zivfrome») without any special difficulties, beyond with the exception of small cracks that occur during the dry season.
Having reached a rocky outcrop called Ombligo (Navel), the road changes direction and then the ascent continues along the Edge of the Sun (Arista del Sol), to the approaches to Pecho (Breast), where the path lies. To get to the highest point, you need to walk along the glacier located at the top and climb along the northern edge of the crater. From there you can see the second highest peak of Iztaccihuatl - Cabeza, «Head» 5140 m.
Total travel time: 14 km (round trip). Elevation difference from: 1220 m. Travel time: from 6 to 8 hours – for the ascent, if you start in the town of Khoya (4000 m).
Subtleties: this route goes along the southern slope, and even though it passes through some glaciers and ice fields, it is not very difficult, so you can do without special equipment for climbing glaciers. The view from Popocatépetl is extremely impressive, as is the panorama with many surrounding volcanoes, the city of Puebla far below, the entire valley of Mexico City and the capital of the state itself. Without a doubt, this is one of the most scenic routes in the Mexican highlands.
Route 2. Ayoloco. Degree of difficulty: medium.
Description: the route also starts in the town of Hoyita, where it is possible to reach by car, and from where you need to walk up to Hoya (4000 m). Here, instead of starting to climb along the usual route (number 1), you should turn onto the path leading north (to the left), which first rises to an altitude of 4000 m, and then descends again. The road is clearly visible until you reach the Tlaltipitongo basin, which features an impressive glacial circus. During the descent, the path crosses four river channels, all four usually fill with water during the rainy season. Then there is a climb to the Tiburon Cave (Cueva Tiburón). It can be used as a shelter; it can accommodate 5 — 8 people. It is located at an altitude of about 4000 m. From here the ascent in the true sense of the word begins, along the ground with a moderate slope, an angle of 30 — 35° — and over a distance of less than a kilometer, the elevation difference is 400 m, some sections of which are very pronounced — until you reach the Cross of Rosas Islas (Cruz de Rosas Islas), at an altitude of 4420 m. The next ascent is on the ground, strewn with many stones. During this part of the journey, Vault 19 can be seen in the distance.
The path continues to the edge of a moraine formed during the Little Ice Age, which was part of the maximum advance of the then existing Atzintli glacier. This moraine is then climbed until the peaks of Aguilera, Ordoñez and Pecho become visible in the distance. The next path continues along a path, clearly visible, which goes north, to the shelter of Ayoloko II and Otis MacAlister (4680 m), which can accommodate 8 — 10 people. From here begins the most technically difficult part - the ascent to the northeast along rocky ground. The path goes along not very reliable soils; at times it is necessary to cross rocks smoothed by ice; the trail then leads to the constantly changing tongue of glacier ice, which is by far the longest. Its slope does not exceed 40°, and at the moment it is located at an altitude of 4900 m. It is advisable to try to cross it diagonally to the northeast (to the left) in order to climb to Barriga or to Doblez de Ordoñez, since the further you go to the right, the stronger the slope of the glacier becomes, and near the Colador de Ordoñez Ayoloco (Colador de Ayoloco, the steepest and steepest part of the glacier) exceeds 50%.
From the area of Rodillas, «Knees», this path connects with the regular route leading to the peak of Pecho («Breasts»).
Travel duration: 14 km (round trip). Elevation difference from: 1260 m. Travel time: approximately 4 - 5 hours to climb from Hoya to the Ayoloko II shelter, and from there to the top about the same.
Subtleties: there are no particular technical difficulties before reaching the McAlister shelter. There are impressive views with sharp rock peaks, moraines, and mountain streams. However, from the shelter it is necessary to walk along recessional moraines and stones that the glacier brought with it. Some areas are frozen ground, or a glacier under stone rubble. The stones on the path are very mobile and have the ability to slip out from under your feet. Starting from this section it is necessary to use full equipment for high altitudes - ice axe, crampons, helmet and when there is ice or during the dry season. You need to add equipment for climbing glaciers - cables and insurance, as there is a high probability of encountering cracks, calgaspores and a crust of thick ice. Upon climbing Barriga, you have the opportunity to admire the same panorama as described in route 1.
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Route 3. Atzintli. Degree of difficulty: medium.
Description: Start along the path described in the previous route and follow to the McAlister shelter. From here follows a continued ascent in an easterly direction, the landmark being the rock of Peña Aguilera (Peña Aguilera, its height is more than 5100 m), which divides Barriga («Alivefrom») from Rodillas («Colen»). The ascent is carried out on soil replete with stones brought by the glacier; you should head for the Peña cliff, but do not go directly under it in order to insure yourself against a rockfall. From Peña Aguilera the path goes to the top of Cadera (Bedru), along a slope whose soil is made of loose sand in the dry season or covered with ice in the rainy season, and the slope of which in some places can reach 40°. Having reached the Thigh, or as it is also called the Hill of Venus, then you need to stick to the usual route (1).
Travel duration: 1 km from Ayoloko II shelter. Elevation difference from: 400 m (from the Otis McAlister shelter). Travel time: from the shelter about 2 hours to Kadera, and from there about another two hours to the top.
Subtleties: There used to be a glacier, which today has been reduced to a tiny ice field (buried glacier) and permanently frozen ground. During the dry season there is no need to use crampons, but during the rainy season it is absolutely necessary to have full equipment. There is no need to insure yourself with cables, since the likelihood of cracks is extremely low, but it would be worthwhile to do so in some places for safety reasons.
The route is considered medium in difficulty, due to the fact that on the final cut it is necessary to move along a larger slope with the likelihood of landslides. If your goal is to climb to the top of the Right Knee (Rodilla Derecha), you should take full equipment so that there is an option to use insurance, since there are small parts of buried ice, the remains of a now defunct glacier. This route is recommended as an additional route to route 2, Ayoloko, although it is more extended if you are heading to the top.
Route 4. To the «Head» on «Chin». Degree of difficulty: medium.
Description: the first ascent to the top of Cabeza («Golova», 5140 m) was made recently, in 1925. This route is considered a classic route for conquering the second highest peak of the volcano. You can start it from Chalchoapan (4610 m) along the western slope. The ascent begins to Cuello (Cuello, “Neck”), a ridge located at an altitude of about 5000 m. Having reached there, you need to walk along a rocky slope to a wall at an altitude of about 25 m, which forms Menton (Mentón, “Chin”). Having overcome this only obstacle, all that remains is to climb the sandy or ice spit to Cabeza, where the glacier of the same name was once located, which disappeared several decades ago.
Travel duration: 1.5 km from Chalchoapana. If the climb comes from Khoya, then it is eight kilometers. Elevation difference from: 550 m (from Chalchoapan) and 1150 m (from Hoya). Travel time: from Chalchoapan refuge should be considered 1 — 2 hours to Cueyo, and from there 1 hour to the top of Cabeza. From Hoya you should lay 4 — 5 hours before turning to Cueyo. From the turn from to Queyo itself, the same distance. As for the descent, from the top to Chalchoapan it will take one hour, and to Hoya - three. The total is 12 — 13 hours and 15 km hike there and back!
Nuances: a few years ago the route had an attraction in the form of a panorama overlooking the Ayolotepito glacier, one of the two largest on Iztaccihuatl. However, over the past 15–20 years, the glacier has shrunk to the point of almost complete disappearance, and as a result, sharp rocks and cliffs have no longer emerged from under the ice. Technically the route is not difficult, but in some places it is necessary to climb, so that in the rainy season an ice ax and crampons may be necessary in order to overcome the temporary channels filled with snow on the path between Chalchoapan and Menton («Chin»), the climb along the wall of which is not considered difficult, but requires attention.
The use of a rope during ascent is not considered necessary, however, it is recommended for greater safety, and when descending along the wall, it will definitely be needed. The zone is prone to landslides, particularly in fields of buried ice — remnants of the Ayolfromepito glacier, and some experience is needed to find a path that requires less effort.
The view of Pecho (Chest) peak is magnificent. Both the peak itself and the Edge of the Sun are visible. Climbing to the very top, you can also see dizzying rock walls, called Inescalables, or Frontones, which represent the northern face of Cabeza. Alternatively, if you want to extend the horizontal part of the route (from Hoya to Cabeza - approximately 8 km), this option has the advantage that the hike can be completed in one day if you start it very early, so you can return before dark.
Route 5. Amaquilecatl, along the northwestern slope. Difficulty level: easy.
Description: a classic route for climbing one of the most significant peaks of Iztaccihuatl. The beginning is similar to route 1, from Khoyi (3990 m) to the Gulya valley (4400 m). Here begins the path to the top of the Pies («Legs») volcano, or as it is also called Amaquilecatl. First you should climb to the western edge, then the corridor begins. Then you should climb the wall again for about 8 — 10 meters. Then climb up to Ombro («Shoulder»). There is a semblance of a canal that provides direct access to the northern slope of Amaquilecatl, marked with a cross. You need to walk with caution, the rocks break easily, there are also two sections where you need to climb, about two meters each. The last stretch of the path is not difficult, but there is ice on it that requires attention. Then the ascent is carried out to the very peak, which is 4710 m high.
Duration of the journey: 3 km ascent from Khoya, and 4 km return journey, as it is done along a different, longer path. Elevation difference from: 720 m. Travel time: From Khoya to Gulya about an hour or two. Then two to three hours to the top of Amaquilecatl. The descent to Hoya takes 2 hours.
Specifics: together with Cabeza Peak («Head»), Amaquilecatl is considered an important peak of the volcano, but is not so visited because it does not reach 5 thousand meters. Still, this is a good chance to practice climbing simple weight climbs and belaying. If there is snow, the spectacle of the route increases, and if there is a lot of it, or it forms ice, an ice ax and crampons become necessary, especially in the last section (30 m), where the ascent is along the northern side of the mountain, which is quite shaded. Despite its apparent simplicity, it should not be underestimated, since several climbers died on the climb to Amaquilecatl, and it also happened that people got lost. It is important not to lose sight of landmarks, as it is quite easy to get lost here in cloudy weather. The view of Popocatepetl and the entire panorama from the top are magnificent. If you see from the view towards Rodillas (Knees), you can see the Amaquilecatl crater, formed during an avalanche that descended thousands of years ago in the Amaquilecatl volcanic cone. It is estimated that this peak used to be 5 thousand meters high and had glaciers on it. The descent is carried out along the southern slope, and does not present any technical difficulties - to the Gulya valley and to the place where the ascent began - Khoya, allowing you to complete the hike within one day.
Route 6. Teifroml along the southern slope. Difficulty level: easy.
Description: the usual route of ascent to another important peak, Iztaccihuatl, located 1.5 km north-northeast from Cabeza. You can start it from the village of San Rafael (2250 m), but then the hike will be quite long, and it will take several hours to get closer to the volcano. But in order to gain time, it is allowed to travel 18 km in a high-riding car, to a place called Llano Grande El Alto (3650 m). This is where the route begins. Starting from the town of Cuatrocaminos (3690 m), you need to climb through the pine forest, crossing forest roads, to the sanctuary of Solitario (4030 m). Continue along Agual El Marrano, along a clearly visible path to the Teifroml shelter (4330 m) and then along a zigzag path to Texcal de Marcos (4550 m). Further there is no definite path, due to the many stone blocks, the direction changes - to the northeast. The last part of the path is quite difficult, due to very rugged terrain and the danger of falling unstable stones.
Duration of the journey: 13 km of ascent from Llano Grande or Cuatrocaminos. Travel time: from Cuatrocaminos you need to fromcount approximately 4 — 5 hours to the top. From the Teyfroml shelter you need to lay down 1.5 — 2 hours to walk about one and a half kilometers.
Features: the peak is not very visited, since it is somewhat removed from the usual climbing routes, and due to its seemingly modest altitude. However, this mountain is comparable to Xicnautecatl or Nevado de Toluca. In addition to the usual path, you can climb from any other direction, but it will take more time, since you will have to walk a greater distance without having a specific path. The mountain consists of a whole series of peaks exceeding 4600 m, some of them are so similar in height that among them it is possible not to recognize the main peak. Going there without knowledge of the route or experience in navigation means a high probability of getting lost. The mountain can be covered with snow at almost any time of the year, however, given that every year the precipitation there becomes increasingly scarce (due to a general decrease in humidity and an increase in temperature), there is usually no need for an ice ax. According to professionals, this part of Iztaccihuatl is considered a complex of volcanic domes, whose age does not exceed 80 thousand years, so Teyfroml is the youngest section of Iztaccihuatl. In addition, it has recorded large advances of glaciers that occurred during the era of their maximum distribution. The minor glaciation, however, also left traces in the form of small rock glaciers with characteristics very similar to the glaciers of Nevado de Toluca.
The view of Cabeza is probably one of the most stunning. Only one and a half kilometers separate Teyfroml and «Golovo» along the horizontal line. Iztaccihuatl has an altitude of 5100 m, which means a difference in altitude of about 800 between the two peaks. In addition, it is possible to distinguish from the spring walls, called the Frontons, or Inaccessible, which are part of Cabeza, the second highest peak of the mountain, and the climbing routes along them. The gables act as areas for the most extreme mountaineering in the mountains of Mexico.
In addition, Cueyo («Neck») and Pecho («Chest») are visible in the south, this latter with its small glacier, which still remains in its crater. This glacier arose during the Little Glaciation period, around the 18th century.
Route 7. From San Rafael (2550 m) to Chalchoapan (4610 m). Difficulty level: easy.
Description: starts in the center of the town of San Rafael San Rafael, following a road paved with stones, then along a country road, to the town of Dos Aguas, it is about 2 km. Then it goes from a sharp 860 m to Dinamo de la Cuesta (2800 m). The next 250 meters of elevation change are overcome along El Tubo, either following a straight line (higher gradient) or along the winding Caracol path. More one option is to climb up the clearing. In any case, they all lead to the town of Caja de agua de don Lencho, 3050 m. Then you need to climb along the paths that cross another clearing to Nexcoalango. For more than a kilometer of the path you should go along the water pipeline, which ends in the town of Trancas (3440 m). From here along the ridge, Loma Larga, which is almost 3 km long, along a path that is very clearly visible, to Laminas (4040 m), where the ruins of a mountain shelter built of stone are still preserved. Next, climb to the Valle de los Arrepentidos, an area with a lower slope, located at an altitude of m. Then climb diagonally, without deviating from the path, in order to overcome the Morenas Tumbaburros, at an altitude of just under 4600 m. The final from the cut reaches approximately 500 m to the ruins of shelter 13.
Travel duration: 10.5 km from San Rafael (2550 m). Elevation difference from: 2100 m. Travel time: 5 — 7 hours rise and 4 — 5 descent.
Subtleties: without a doubt, this route to Iztaccihuatl makes it possible to overcome the greatest difference in altitude from in the shortest time, and in order to complete it in one day, personal physical fitness and good acclimatization are required. This is the attractiveness of the route. In addition, it provides a perspective to see all types of mountain vegetation present on Iztaccihuatl (with the exception of oak forests). From the Dos Aguas and Caja de Agua de Don Lencho cutting there is even a small cloud forest with tree species characteristic of the tropics and temperate latitudes. Spruce forests are found on the route between Nexcoalango and Trancas; the trees in them exceed 20 meters in height. Mountain pine forests dominate the entire Loma Larga ridge, and finally, high mountain meadows - starting from Laminas to Chalchoapan. This is a personal training route for climbs that require more practice and preparation. The views of Cabeza and Pecho are impressive in their majesty, especially in the vicinity of Nexcoalango and on the rise from Loma Larga to Chalchoapan.
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Route 8. From Amecameca (2480 m) to the Ayoloko refuge (4680 m). Degree of difficulty: medium.
Description: starts in Amecameca, from the right point - 2480 m above sea level. For the first three kilometers, the road goes along the ground with a slight slope until it leads to the Tepepoculco volcano, 2660 m. The path passes through an oak forest, through the towns of Tigre (El Tigre), El Salto and along the canyon of the Tzotquinzingo river to its confluence with another river, Almoloya, at an altitude of 2680 m. From here a path rises, intersecting several times with a dirt road for cars. This entire from-from-sharp path is parallel to the Tsokintzingo Canyon and goes through a mixed forest of pines, spruces, cypresses and oaks. At an altitude of 330 m, spruce trees begin to predominate, which then turn into a coniferous spruce-pine forest. At about 3650 m the road for transport goes to the side, and you need to follow further along the tropics. First, the path lies through a waterfall on the Ayoloko River, approximately 15 m high. At an altitude of 3740 m on the way there is a shelter built of stone. Then up the slope along the river bed, summing up that it is possible to observe three more waterfalls at an altitude of 3800 m. The next path leads to the town of Apapaulta or Coronilla, at an altitude of 3900 m. At this point it is possible to choose two alternative paths. Route 8 follows close to the cliff above the Ayoloko riverbed. The path is interrupted, but the main thing is to stay on the ridge of the mountain. At approximately 4350 m there is a place suitable for parking; here you can spend the night. During the campaigns in . we got from Amecameki to this place in one day, overcoming a difference in altitude from almost 1900 m. The next day it is possible to continue the path along the same ridge of moraine deposits from Ayoloko to the place where the Otis McAllister shelter is located. From this point, continued ascent along route 2 is allowed.
Travel duration: 29 km from Amecameki. Elevation difference from: 2200 m. Travel time: 8 — 10 o'clock.
Specifics: This is a very long route, which was used much more often in those days when there was no road from Paso de Cortes to Hoya, from where modern climbing routes begin. The difference in altitude makes it possible to see almost all the ecological zones of Iztaccihuatl and, moreover, enjoy magnificent panoramic views of the western slope of the volcano.
Route 8(a). Option through the waterfalls: from Amecameki (2480 m) to Hoya (3990 m). Difficulty level: medium.
Description: Starts along route 8 to the town of Apapautla (3900 m). the path then leads through several river channels in the vicinity of Hueyatlaco. The path, which can be clearly distinguished, nevertheless requires attention, in subtlety, in the conditions of fog. It passes through pastures where cows and horses graze (4100 m), and gradually rises to 4180 m, to a place where the hydrothermal demands of the volcano change and there is even a mineral spring. 20 - 30 meters higher there are places where volcanic gases come out of the ground. The ascent continues, crossing the streams of Cabecera Atzintli and leaving sharp cliffs on the left side a few meters high, beyond which there is a view of the Amilpulco Canyon. At an altitude of 4170 m there is an option to take a break, there is room for a small tent. The further path consists of ups and downs until it leads to a small stream with a cascade about 5 m high. It is located at an altitude of 4200 m. Then the descent begins to an area overgrown with lupines and burdocks, and approximately at the altitude, 4170 m, the path leads to the first waterfall, and after 150 m, to the second, at an altitude of 4190 m. Here you should climb to the neck, to altitude 4200, from where the descent to the Tiburon cave begins (3900 m) and further, to a level of 3950 m, where there is a river, perhaps the most abundant in the vicinity of Tlaltipitongo. Next, there are two more riverbeds, which are filled with water only during the rainy season, and along the way you come across isolated tall old pines. The ascent continues to another river, on the banks of which high-mountain burdocks grow, and further, with a very slight slope, to an altitude of 4150 m, from where there is a descent to Khoya. Here you can go to route 1.
Travel duration: 20 – 21 km. Travel time: 9 — 11 hours (round trip).
Specifics: this path allows you to see 7 waterfalls, and just like the first option, almost all types of vegetation of Iztaccihuatl. In addition, you can take this route in the opposite direction (make a descent), such an excursion will be accessible to people without experience. Under any circumstances, it is highly advisable to be accompanied by a guide who knows the area well, so as not to get lost at forks, among clearings and paths, on the way to Amecameca.
Route 9. San Felipe Teotlalzingo (2400 m), Forestal (3340 m), Xahuenahuatialco (3820 m) and Texcal de Marcos (4550 m). Difficulty level: easy.
Description: begins in one of the villages on the eastern slope of the mountain, administratively located in the state of Puebla. There is a shorter option, which starts in San Agustín Atzompa, 2600 m, but in any case, to get to Tefromlalzingo or to Atzompa you need to from the town of San Martín Texmelucan, located at an altitude of 2300 m, turning into it from the Mexico highway without toll City-Puebla. From both towns there are dirt roads that lead to Forestal (San Juan Tetla Experimental Forest Plantings, which will be called Forestal for brevity).
The route follows a clearing cut in a pine-spruce forest, in a westerly direction, to an altitude of 3500 m. You need to pass the Tlazala ravine with a river at the bottom. There are two options: the first is to cross the river in a spruce forest, at the same height, along a clearing (3520 m). The second is to move further along the clearing, Tlasala, do not rise above 3600 m. From the clearing there is a turn from and the path leads to the town of Tetorre. It is important to go in this place, since here you can also cross Tlasala, which turns into a gorge with steep slopes. A vast field of high-mountain meadow grass serves as a landmark, from which it is possible to climb further to Lake Stepuanaguatialco (3820 m). From the lake the path follows south, along one of the streams that feed it. At approximately 4000 m, the forest parted and the trees gave way to meadow vegetation. Here, several tiny seasonal ponds and boulders scattered here and there serve as a guide for further movement. The Tlasala and Ocoyo gorges remain on the northern side. Approximately at altitude 4400 — At 4500 m the moraine serves as a new landmark. At this point you need to start climbing along this glacial slope and go northeast, towards Texcal de Marcos. You need to watch out for the walls along which the ice of the glaciers that formed here during the Little Ice Age flows down. It is important not to exceed the altitude of 4700 m, otherwise it will be a waste of energy. Further landmarks are the ruins of the Eastern Glaciers shelter (4770 m).
From this place you need to walk, do not go up any more, and you will even have to go down a little, since the Texcal de Marcos valley is at an altitude of 4550 m.
Travel duration: from Atzompi to Forestal - 10.3 km, to Forestal to Stepuanaguatialco — 6 km. Elevation difference from: almost 1000 m from the starting point to Forestal and 2150 to Texcal de Marcos. Travel time: estimate from San Felipe Tefromlalzingo to Forestal about 2 - 3 hours, then 2 — 3 hours to Stephuanaguacialco, and 5 – 6 hours to Texcal de Marcos. Only 9 – 11 hours from Tefromlalzingo to Texcal de Marcos and about two hours less if you start the hike in Atzompe.
Nuances: this route is very spectacular, you can see the entire northeastern slope of Iztaccihuatl, with wonderful views of the peaks of Pecho («Chest»), Cabeza («Head») and Teyfroml. In addition, a change in vegetation is visible, starting from fields and vegetable gardens, passing through mixed and coniferous forests, to high-mountain meadows, and ending with glacial landscapes. In recent years, Lake Stepuenaguacialco has been filled with a small amount of water and is not constant. It owes its existence to the enormous melting of the glacier located on top of Pecho, and the lake is considered the habitat of the folded frog Hyla Plicata. It is even possible that Stephuanaguatialco represents the most elevated habitat of this amphibian in Mexico.
The hike can be done in one day, but it will be very exhausting (even if you go up, or vice versa, return the other way, through San Rafael), or in two days. The second option involves considerable effort, since you need to carry equipment for spending the night. There is another attractive side - the path lies through a series of morainic deposits, which covered this slope of the volcano and which in some places, during the maximum onset of ice, in the Little Ice Age, descending to an altitude of 4500 m.
Route 9 (a). Option from Huilango to the Edge of the Sun (Arista del Sol). Degree of difficulty: medium.
Description: the beginning is carried out along route 9. At an altitude of 4400 - 4500 meters it is necessary to determine the correct path to get to the deposits of the Central Eastern Glacier in the Wilango area. The ascent can be carried out in different ways, since at an altitude of 4800 m and further the ground is strewn with pellet stones, because of these difficulties it is necessary to climb the slope leading to Barriga («Zhivfromu»), at an altitude of more than 5000 m. The landmark is a cliff called Ombligo («Navel»), separating all the shrinking glaciers Southeast and Central East, both located in the Borrighi zone. Having reached Barriga, you then need to follow the usual route described under number 1, along the Edge of the Sun, to get to the top of Pecho and climb it.
Duration of the journey: 1.5 km from altitude 4500 m (see previous route), from where the turn goes from to route 1. Elevation difference from: From 4400 m to the Face of the Sun (Arista del Sol) — 550 m. Travel time: 3 – 4 hours (climbing).
Nuances: the ascent is carried out along one of the last glaciers of Iztaccihuatl on the eastern slope of the volcano. There is a beautiful view of the White Walls (Murallas Blancas), that is, the front part of the glacier in the crater, as well as extensive traces of glacial movement - pellet stones and recessional moraines left by the ice that descended during the Little Ice Age. The tongue of the glacier descended from the top of the mountain to an altitude of 4500 m, was more than 1 km in length and competed in its size with the Ayoloko glacier on the western slope of the volcano. Both glaciers are born in the area of Barriga Iztaccihuatl, at an altitude of 5100 m. The described version of the route is very rarely visited these days.
10. Route along the Edge of the World (Arista de la Luz). Starts in the village of San Rafael. This route was the classic climb to the top of Pecho, until the path along the southern slope, Facet of the Sun (number 1) became the most popular among climbers. At the same time, due to the rapid melting and retreat of the Ayolfromepito glacier, today this path is considered to be associated with high risk, for the same reason few people have chosen it in recent years. There is a high probability of landslides on this road, and only in the presence of thick snow does this risk decrease. If you decide to follow this path, you must have safety devices with you to secure yourself with ropes. In this place, since the slope is northern, thick ice crusts form in the dry season and thinner ones in the last meters of the path, on the approaches to Pecho. It is considered a route of medium difficulty.
11. Route along the eastern glaciers. Climbing the «White Walls» (Murallas Blancas), as the glacier front of the Pecho crater is called, can only be carried out by people with mountaineering experience and knowledge of mixed climbing techniques, or by ice climbing consultants. There are cuts that are almost vertical, the difficulty of which is classified from medium to difficult, based on the wall that is chosen for the climb. The glacier becomes thinner over time, and being near its surface in strong sunlight increases the risk of falling under snow or ice, or a rock collapse.
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