Every year on November 1st and 2nd, Mexicans celebrate the Day of the Dead. Every year, in the ancient town of Huaquechula, not far from Puebla, local residents build the most unusual altars dedicated to this holiday. Huaquechula was once an outpost of the Aztecs; their military garrison was located here, and in the 16th century, Franciscan monks built a monastery here. Today the town is famous for its magnificent altars.
The Festival of the Dead has pre-Hispanic roots and was one of the most important in pre-Spanish Mexico. It was an ancient harvest festival, which was celebrated by the Spanish monks in conjunction with the Feast of the Dead, celebrated on the Catholic calendar on November 2. At the same time, the thousand-year-old essence of the holiday — veneration of ancestors — was able to survive, and for the residents of Huaquechula, as well as for many other Indian communities, it became an occasion to demonstrate one of the facets of their special cultural identity.
The offerings in Huaquechula have a distinct style that sets them apart from similar offerings to the dead from other parts of Mexico. They are a mixture of the pre-Hispanic traditions of the region with the aesthetics of altar decoration for Holy Thursday before Easter, which came here with Catholic culture. Hence their unique monumental appearance and the procedure for obtaining them in white.
It is important to emphasize the difference between traditional offerings to the dead and altars dedicated to the dead. The tradition of building altars is considered less ancient. Altars are structures of three or four levels, like huge wedding cakes. They are usually built in the living rooms of houses, where, according to legend, souls are obliged to come to take part in a feast organized in their honor.
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The lower part of the altar, the first level, represents the earthly world. A photograph of the deceased is placed on it. Most often, it is not just placed in the middle, but placed on a horizontal surface so that it is visible only from a mirror installed vertically, directing the viewer. The mirror represents the entrance to the outside world, according to pre-Hispanic beliefs. More than that, it is possible to perceive it as a symbolic image of eternity and those who “gone and are no longer there,” as they once said about the dead.
Food and objects that the deceased loved during his lifetime are laid out around the photograph. Here you can see fruits, all kinds of food and drinks, including beer and tequila. The image of the deceased is usually surrounded by ceramic figurines called "mourners", which are intended to depict suffering relatives, whose origins also go back to the pre-Hispanic era. There are also baskets with flowers and sugar figurines of animals made by the village residents. These figures are called — “caramels”, among them you can recognize lambs, ducklings, donkeys… There are especially many of them on altars dedicated to children, who are commemorated separately, October 31. An integral part of the offering is puff pastries, sprinkled with sesame seeds, in the shape of a skull with two crossed bones. There are also baked goods that look like a lying dead man, sprinkled with red sugar, symbolizing blood, and buns in the shape of a bow, which act as a very schematic image of a skull. The custom of eating images of the dead and deities, molded from amaranth seeds, originated in the distant past, and from wheat pastry and sugar enriched the culinary traditions of the Day of the Dead already during the Spanish colony.
The second level of the altar represents heaven. On it you can see images of angels and the Virgin Mary. Floors made of white satin are usually placed so that a large number of fancy folds are visible, designed to depict clouds. In addition, elements of the Catholic liturgy are placed here - the monstrance and church candles of different sizes. Modernity has introduced white neon lamps into the design process, replacing candles.
The third and sometimes fourth levels of the altar symbolize the pinnacle of the heavenly kingdom, where the crucifix is an invariable element, crowning the entire structure with its presence.
The altar levels are usually supported by baroque stipite columns. They were in vogue in New Spain in the 18th century.
At two o'clock in the afternoon on November 1, the temple bells ring, announcing the arrival of the dead. Seeing their souls is not allowed. But belief claims that they are counted by following “paths” of marigold petals leading from the middle of the street into the houses and ending at the foot of the altars. Usually making these paths and sprinkling them with holy water — an activity that is assigned to children. The entire altar and offering are fumigated with aromatic resins - copal and incense - combining Christian and pre-Hispanic rituals.
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When the doors of houses are opened, this means that earthly visitors can also see the altars. According to custom, a wax candle is brought there, which is placed at the foot of the altar, stopped in respectful silence or a prayer is said for the deceased. When the visitor heads towards the exit, the owner of the house invites him to “throw something inside.” Usually served with boiled beans with mole sauce, served with white bread and atole or cocoa. Sometimes it is a tamali made from corn grits or rice; pork stewed with vegetables can also be served, depending on the financial capabilities of the owners.
In the evening, the holiday continues with street processions, in which local residents take part, and guests of the countries are also allowed to see it.
When it starts to get dark, the magical effect of living candle fire intensifies. Their number in homes is increasing, and electric lamps located in the right places also create a fairy tale atmosphere. The owners of the houses invite guests who came to share the pain of loss with them to pray for deceased relatives and admire the extraordinary altars, treating them to a cup of chocolate and a bun. Houses remain closed and traffic does not stop until late at night.
2 November the previous day's recovery significantly decreases. Relatives of the deceased visit their graves in the cemetery to clean them up and decorate them with all kinds of flowers. During the remembrance ceremony, the grave is fumigated with copal and incense, just as it was done the day before in front of the altar with the offering. The aromas of incense and the riot of colors of flowers create an incredible spectacle in this place of sorrow.
Here joy and fun are felt much stronger than sorrow. People clothe their memory of those who are no longer alive in a variety of colors, sounds, smells inherent in life, not death. Remembrance and gratitude are dedicated to the departed, because they have become part of the earth, which means they will nourish and support those whom they left on it.
Altars are dismantled only a week after their installation. It is believed that all residents of the village must have time to visit them.
Based on ¡It's all Mexico!